Fashioning an Empire: Textiles from Safavid Iran at the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

 

Textile, Iran, 1600–1630 CE. Silk and metal-wrapped thread, TE.204.2010. Photo: © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

 
 

Fashioning an Empire

Textiles from Safavid Iran

Until June 22, 2024

 
 

This captivating exhibition highlights the critical role that silk played during the Safavid period (1501–1736 CE).

Silk. Its complex manufacturing process and supple feel against the skin make it a valuable and highly prized luxury good. Since the 6th century CE, Iran has produced high-quality silk, widely appreciated, and traded long distances. It is, however, during the reign of Iran’s most important ruler in modern history, Shah ‘Abbas I the Great (r. 1588-1629 CE), that silk became a state-controlled industry – it boosted the country’s economy by supplying both an eager internal demand and feeding a vigorous export market spanning from England to Thailand. Shah ‘Abbas was the fifth shah of the Safavid dynasty (1501-1722 CE). Under the Safavids, Iran experienced a period of renewed political strength and artistic creativity, geographical borders were consolidated, and most of the population adopted Shi‘a Islam, which became the official state religion of the country. The rise of the silk economy during Shah ‘Abbas’ reign had effects beyond the markets, inspiring artistic development and fostering cultural exchange.

Born out of a collaboration with the National Museum of Asian Art in Washington, DC (USA), this exhibition explores the development of the silk industry under Shah ‘Abbas. It presents the capital city of Isfahan as the heart of the Safavid state and showcases fashion styles during a time when Iran established itself as a major player in the global arena.

The exhibition ends with a series of contemporary works created by Qatar-based designers in collaboration with M7, Qatar’s epicenter for innovation and entrepreneurship in fashion and design. Their artworks respond to the splendid historic textiles on display and illustrate the powerful creativity that Safavid silks still inspire in today’s creative minds.

 
 
 
 
 

Exhibition Preview

 

Textile with a Lattice Motif. Iran, ca 1600 CE. Silk and metal-wrapped thread. TE.206.2010
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Carpet with a Design of Palmettes, Cloudbands and Pomegranates. Iran, Isfahan, late 16th-early 17th century CE. Wool and cotton, CA.70.2007. © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Throne Carpet with a Sickle-Leaf Design. Iran, Kerman, 17th century CE. Wool, cotton and silk. MIA.2013.194. © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Qays (Majnun) first glimpses Layli
From a copy of the Haft awrang (Seven Thrones) by Jami (d. 1492)
Iran, Safavid period, 1556–62
Opaque watercolor, ink, and gold on paper
Purchase–Charles Lang Freer Endowment
Freer Gallery of Art
F1946.12.23

Portrait of a Gentleman
Iran, Isfahan, Safavid period, ca. 1650–1675
Oil on canvas
PA.2.1997
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Silk Tomb Cover with Devotional Inscriptions. Signed by Master Muhammad Hasan bin Hajji Muhammad Kashani. Commissioned by Hajiyeh Khanzadeh, daughter of Qasim Abiyanegi. Iran, dated 1153 AH (1740-1741 CE). Silk and metal-wrapped thread. MIA.2013.158
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Textile
Iran, Qazvin, Safavid period, ca. 1575–1600
Silk brocade velvet with figures
TE.9.1998.1 and TE.9.1998.2
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Carpet
Iran, Safavid period, 17th century
Wool and cotton
Gift from the Trustees of the Corcoran Gallery (William A. Clark Collection)
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery
S2018.18

Textile, Iran, 1600–1630 CE. Silk and metal-wrapped thread, TE.204.2010. Photo: © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Shah ‘Abbas meeting with the Ambassador Khan ‘Alam from India. Iran, Isfahan, ca 1630-1640 CE. Gold, ink and opaque watercolour on paper. MIA.2014.377.
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Portrait of an Armenian lady
Iran, Isfahan, Safavid period, ca. 1650–75
Oil on canvas
PA.66.1998
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Portrait of a Youth
Iran, Isfahan, Safavid period, ca. 1630–40
Opaque watercolor and gold on paper
Purchase—Smithsonian Unrestricted Trust Funds, Smithsonian Collections Acquisition Program, and Dr. Arthur M. Sackler
Arthur M. Sackler Gallery
S1986.302

Da’ud Khan Receives a Robe of Honor from Mun’im Khan
From a copy of the Akbarnama (Book of Akbar) by Abu’l-Fazl (d. 1602)
Attributed to Hiranand
India, Mughal period, ca. 1596–1600
Opaque watercolor and gold on paper
Purchase–Charles Lang Freer Endowment
Freer Gallery of Art
F1952.31

Section of a Carpet with Flowers in a Lattice Pattern. India, Hyderabad, ca 1660 CE. Silk and pashmina. CA.7.1997

Medallion Carpet. Iran, Tabriz, middle of the 16th century CE. Wool and cotton. CA.20.1999
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Textile designed and signed by Shafi’ ‘Abbasi (1628–1674 CE). Iran, Isfahan, middle of the 17th century. Silk and metal-wrapped thread, MIA.2014.530. © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Textile with Pink, Red and Blue Flowers. Iran, 1700–1722 CE. Silk and metal-wrapped thread. MIA.2014.282. Photo: © Museum of Islamic Art, Doha

Carpet. Iran, 1600-1625 CE. Wool and cotton. MIA.2013.182
© Museum of Islamic Art, Doha